Hatz Biplane Association

I experimented with a 1/8" blade on the band saw and found I wouldn't be able to make nose template's...even with the guide practically on the wood, the blade wiggles just enough that I can't make a straight/even cut plus I can't see the line. Next I experimented with a drum sanding bit on the drill press, and that results in slight bumps; and the paper doesn't get removed with the wood, so I can't tell if I'm down to the line or not. It seems I may need to use a scroll saw but before I spend more money on another tool that'll take up space, just wondering what worked for you. Thank you in advance.

Hi John,
Are you talking about only the templates or all of the ribs? For the template I used my band saw and a sander and took my time.

I'm working on the nose blocks. I used the band saw to cut close to the lines. I then tried using the drum sander to finish it off to the line, but I can feel slight bumps. I want a even surface. I'm not happy with it. The big bump is where I stopped. The third photo shows how the paper doesn't come off so I can't tell if I'm at the line or not. I'm thinking a scroll saw is the better way to make these.

Hi John,
I would suggest making an aluminum template and trace your parts on plywood, so they are all the same. Then cut them close on a band saw and finish them to the line with a belt sander, or a sanding disk on a table or radial arm saw. It is much easier to control than a drum sander. We did not use any paper for templates because the paper stretches and shrinks with changes in humidity.
John Hanson HC-012

I did use a scroll saw in the tight spots, now that I think about it. Once I had a good template I rough cut all the nose pieces and attached the template to them one at a time and cut them all on a router. See the link:
http://www.damowry.com/hatz/thumbnails.php?album=2
or
http://www.damowry.com/hatz/thumbnails. ... m=4&page=2

John,

Use a 1/4 blade on your bandsaw for cutting then use a belt or disk sander to finish. You don't need a scroll saw, unless you really want one.

Al

Did no one use a master template as a guide for a router bit with a ball bearing nose piece--??--lotta discussion on the early Kelly D site..Don't think I have any digital pix of the set up---it was 35mm film when I made mine. still got my jigs tho.

Could take some new pix if there's enough interest--'course if you wanna go to a KD airfoil you could borrow my jigs.
jerry

wassbiplane wrote:Did no one use a master template as a guide for a router bit ...
jerry

That's exactly what I did, but I thought this was about making the template itself?

I ended up buying and using a scroll saw to make templates. Working slowly, I cut close enough to the line so a little 'white' showed. I then placed it in the jig to see how it was lining up. I used the scroll saw and band saw to work away the leading edge notch. I initially used the disc sander to get closer to the line if I needed, but eventually I put the nose rib template in a vise and sanded it by hand. I was constantly going from jig to vise (for sanding) until it was as perfect as I could get it. In the end, it took six attempts. The scroll saw came in handy for the interior of the false rib template. I have large photos of my progress here (you can leave comments at individual photos or at the photo album): http://imageevent.com/hatz

jwhanson wrote:Hi John,
I would suggest making an aluminum template and trace your parts on plywood, ....
John Hanson HC-012

How did you make the aluminum template? There is a professional CNC shop who could do the work... did you just take them your blueprints and have them digitize them... or is there a set of digital prints somewhere? I will likely do most of the metal hardware with a CNC machine, so they will be needed for that too.

Tre'